“Cookoovaya” (κουκουβάγια), which suggests “owl” in Greek, is featured on this restaurant’s emblem, which depicts the eyes and beak of an owl. In Athens’ historic and vibrant Pangrati district, the brand is prominently displayed on the signal exterior this Michelin Information restaurant, with the phrases ‘Sensible Delicacies’ beneath. The owl is the sacred hen of the goddess Athena and the image of town of Athens. It’s a image of knowledge and data in Greek tradition that’s mirrored within the restaurant’s culinary excellence and considerate, inventive cooking.
Upon arrival, we’re greeted by a up to date reception desk set reverse a putting floor-to-ceiling wine cooler. This spectacular show is so tall {that a} ladder is required to succeed in the very best bottles.
The homepage of Cookovaya’s menu is titled ‘Apheresis’ which is central to the restaurant’s culinary philosophy, emphasizing conventional methods that draw out and emphasize pure high quality and flavours. There’s a dedication right here to showcase one of the best Greek substances from land and sea, utilizing each a part of these substances from “nostril to tail” and “root to stem”.
Meals
We had been invited to select from the à la carte menu or go for the chef’s suggestions. We selected the latter, with the one grievance being that one in all us was a pescatarian. This turned out to be a great transfer as we completely loved quite a lot of dishes that we’d not have in any other case chosen.
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We began with a scrumptious carpaccio of sea bream that was accompanied by wild fennel pollen, yuzu kosho and lemon zest. Skinny slices of this fish, also called sea bream, had a fragile sweetness and a scrumptious, virtually barely nutty style.
After which the dishes continued to circulate, with native purple prawns, scallops, avocado, chilli, lime and coriander significantly interesting to the palate.
In fact, no Greek meal can be full with out a Greek salad, and this one didn’t disappoint, not least as a result of the accompanying feta – which originates from the area of Arcadia within the central Peloponnese – was hardly aged, had much less salt and a a lot softer and silkier texture. from a traditional lady.
Anybody accustomed to Greek delicacies will even be accustomed to spanakopita (σπανακόπιτα) – Cookoova’s scrumptious model of spinach pie comes full with wild greens, Swiss chard, feta and herbs.
The spotlight for me was the scallops sitting on a smoked aubergine and jalapeño puree – it was so juicy and nonetheless makes my mouth water once I consider it!
We additionally loved octopus on grilled bread with fava beans and tomatoes…
…and tarama made out of white fish roe, olive oil and lemon juice, served with crispy filo bread that’s made with out yeast.
A facet dish of steamed spring beans with grated tomato, further virgin olive oil, aged vinegar and recent garlic, plus a plate of grilled Ambracan prawns with olive oil, lemon and oregano flower (from the Ambracan Gulf on the northwest coast of Greece, and famend for its high quality ) had been additional examples of how easy cooking methods can obtain distinctive outcomes.
Our predominant course – historically cooked catch of the day (bianco, bourdeto, soup, poached with basil, bourou-bourou) was introduced to us earlier than it was deboned and served at our desk.
In Greek delicacies, “bourou-bourou” is a conventional soup made out of numerous greens and typically pasta or rice. It’s a hearty and comforting dish that’s often loved as an appetizer or a light-weight meal. The fish (skarpina) on this event was surprisingly ‘meaty’, tasty and filling.
By then we had been greater than glad, but it surely was virtually insisted that we strive the bougatsu – a crunchy ice cream product of filling, vanilla cream and cinnamon that confirmed itself in all its glory, earlier than it crumbled in entrance of us.
The tarte tatin of pears with butter and vanilla ice cream was additionally loved.
Chef
Chef-owner Periklis Koskinas, who hails from Corfu, is one in all Greece’s most well-travelled cooks, having labored within the UK, the Canary Islands, Venezuela, the US, Canada and, after all, Greece. He believes within the simplicity of cooking, utilizing seasonal and native merchandise. He opened Cookoovaya in late 2014 with 5 different revered Greek cooks – for the final three years it has been below his sole management. Greek culinary custom stays on the middle of his menu, in addition to Greek values, regional merchandise and Greek hospitality.
Surroundings
On the time of our go to, this air-conditioned restaurant was buzzing. The tables are nicely spaced and the ceiling excessive so it wasn’t too noisy regardless of many of the tables being taken and some spilling over to dine exterior. The service may be very pleasant and attentive with out being boring, and the ambiance may be very relaxed. Since we had been seated within the entrance of the restaurant, it wasn’t till I went across the nook to go to the restroom that I noticed that there was additionally a completely open kitchen the place you may see all of the culinary magic.
Prices
Appetizers are from €10 to €25. Important programs begin at €30 (for lamb chops, tzatziki, French fries and wild oregano). There are additionally two “Sensible Tasting Menus”, priced at €75 or €85 per individual. Desserts are often round €10.
Ultimate verdict
Now celebrating its tenth anniversary, Cookoovaya continues its dedication to simplicity and knowledge in cooking (therefore the owl once more), delivering dishes that remember the essence of Greek delicacies by way of meticulous preparation and respect for custom. Company can also discover that even the plates are subtly marked with the phrases “270 levels” and a line equal to three-quarters of a circle, representing the overall variety of levels the owl can flip its head. It is these sorts of particulars that exhibit the restaurant’s consideration to element and underscore its dedication to embedding knowledge into each facet of the eating expertise.
Disclosure: This submit is sponsored by Cookoovaya.
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