With its jagged, sharp-toothed peaks, crystalline waters and enchanting medieval cities, northern Italy and Switzerland have beckoned me for years. The legendary mountaineer Reinhold Messner as soon as mentioned, “The Dolomites are the right mixture of artwork and journey, the place nature has carved its personal masterpieces,” and I’ve all the time wished to see these masterpieces in individual. Because the rain started to fall again dwelling in Vancouver, Canada, my pal Darcy and I launched into a whirlwind journey, touring in a loop from Lake Garda to Lake Como, with a fast detour via Switzerland, earlier than lastly heading to the Dolomites.
PALACE AND MODERN
Arriving at Lake Garda and stopping by the Lido Palace, the very first thing we discover is the gorgeous facade of the constructing. The lodge is the right mix of previous and new—whereas the Belle Époque exterior, lounges, and gardens exude timeless class, the rooms are totally trendy and design-focused, with minimalist furnishings, white and grey accents, and eclectic paintings.
However the trendy influences are most evident within the gorgeous spa. Along with the indoor and outside swimming pools, there’s additionally a conventional Finnish sauna, a number of steam rooms and a pink Himalayan salt room. We spend a protracted, lazy afternoon having fun with all the advantages of the spa. My favourite half was the varied “emotional” showers, every with a special goal and providing totally different sprays, pressures, temperatures and smells, akin to mint, eucalyptus and lemongrass.
Though technically fall, summer time was nonetheless in full swing. The employees remarked that they’d by no means seen such a heat October. It was good climate for lounging by the pool, strolling alongside the lakeside promenade and exploring the charming city of Riva del Garda. Within the night we dined on pizza, seafood and Aperol Spritz on the terrace of the vigorous Bella Napoli restaurant.
On the final morning, we stroll alongside the Sentiero del Ponale, an deserted army highway inbuilt 1851 that connects Riva del Garda and Valle di Ledro. Now closed to vehicular site visitors and primarily used for cyclists and hikers, it meanders its approach alongside the cliff. It is among the most lovely roads I’ve ever seen. Each nook reveals one other lovely panorama of the lake. It was the right strategy to finish our first cease.
HEAVEN FOR PENINSULA
Departing from Riva del Garda, we head for our subsequent lakeside vacation spot — two nights in Passalacqua on the western shores of Lake Como. Awarded one of the best lodge on the earth just some weeks earlier than our arrival, the lodge was buzzing with an environment of giddy celebration.
The property’s 300-year heritage is felt from the second you stroll within the door. Shiny classic shades of rosy pink and moss inexperienced, mushy classical music, museum-quality artwork, glowing fountains, glass chandeliers and spectacular terraced gardens add an air of refined glamour. When registering, every of us receives a bouquet of flowers that florist Daniela prepares day by day for the arrival of friends. After we are proven to our luxurious pink suite, we discover extra treats ready for us – champagne, grapes, a tray of native desserts and extra recent flowers.
After a leisurely breakfast the subsequent day, we plan our day—morning yoga, just a few hours of lounging by the pool, a non-public spa remedy, and eventually, the free exercise of the day: wine tasting. Passalacqua’s philosophy encompasses positive Italian artwork sweetly doing nothing— to do nothing and luxuriate in it — and we deliberate to do exactly that.
The day is as nice as we hoped. Relaxed and pampered, we descend into the underground cellar for a wine tasting led by the lodge’s sommelier, Valeria. Sipping a wide range of reds, whites and glowing rosés, we chat with the opposite friends and are amused after we uncover that we’re the one non-honeymoon couple. This doesn’t shock us within the least — Passalacqua is an actual paradise for newlyweds.
Throughout our brief keep right here, we seen that friends not often left the property, and for good purpose. Every thing you possibly can want is shut at hand. As soon as a community of underground stables, the multi-level grounds are related by a winding highway and embrace an underground spa, health club, swimming pool, a number of bars, conservatory seating space, tennis and bocce courts and extra. We not often ventured out on our personal, solely going to purchase recent fruit and cheese at a roadside market after which briefly discover town’s steep, slim cobbled streets and quaint neighborhood retailers.
THE HILLS LIVE
Then we head north, northward, to Vitznau on the shores of Lake Lucerne in Switzerland. Dotted with charming Bavarian-style villages that seem like they have been ripped out of a storybook, Lake Lucerne is Switzerland at its greatest. Homes with home windows within the type of flower frames and steep roofs come straight out of the home The sound of music, and emerald hills, cobbled streets, cute cafes and the distant melody of cowbells full the picture-perfect environment. In opposition to the background of the excessive mountain Rigi, the Park Resort Vitznau matches completely into this image. It is like staying in a fairytale fort, however a fort with all the trendy facilities you possibly can need.
Within the morning we seize our free paddle boards and go paddling alongside the shore of the lake, idly crusing previous fishermen and picnicking households, absorbing the views and the morning silence. Then we’re off to breakfast, which seems to be top-of-the-line meals of our whole journey – not too shocking, given the Michelin-starred restaurant on website. Darcy particularly liked the truffle croque monsieur, and I attempted slightly little bit of every part: vanilla bean French toast, chocolate caramelized pear pancakes, smoked salmon within the form of a flower with a aspect of caviar.
I had heard rumors in regards to the lodge’s heated outside infinity pool and it didn’t disappoint. It’s 70 ft lengthy and appears instantly onto the magnificent lake and mountain panorama. The spa additionally consists of an ice grotto, a tepidarium and a floor-to-ceiling saltwater aquarium. Mendacity by the pool, we seen with delight that the marriage was going down within the courtyard subsequent to the primary constructing. In step with the character of the lodge, it is an attractive, elegant affair, and the music and common merriment emanating from the occasion felt like a heat addition to our keep.
The subsequent day we go mountain climbing and benefit from the sights of lush rolling meadows, wild alpine flowers and sheep scattered throughout the panorama. We finish our brief Swiss break with dinner at a conventional roadside restaurant, Rütli, which serves genuine, hearty Bavarian delicacies.
THE SUBLIME ESCAPE
Going again to the province of South Tyrol, we go to the final cease of the journey – FORESTIS within the Dolomites. Because the solar begins to set, we make our approach down the lengthy, winding highway that connects the city of Brixen to the lodge, and there I catch my first glimpse of the majestic excessive peaks that impressed this journey.
It is true what they are saying: FORESTIS is a paradise for nature lovers. The welcome drink is fabricated from flowers and pine juice; furnishings, soaps and shampoos are fabricated from spruce, pine and larch; the baths are carved from dolomite stone. Each facet of the lodge is pared down and easy, permitting nature to take heart stage.
After a protracted day of journey, we’re excited to move out to our first seven-course meal within the amphitheater-style eating room. Each night time it provides a special Forest Delicacies menu, ready by the chef and primarily based on native, pure elements. Each course delights us, from pumpkin ravioli and roast beef with artichoke mash to raspberry sorbet with pistachios and whipped ricotta for dessert.
The subsequent morning we be a part of a guided stroll and Wyda power session within the forest. Wyda is Celtic yoga and is all the time completed outside, with the purpose of reaching consciousness via reference to nature. A neighborhood from a close-by village, our information tells us all in regards to the magnificence and ease of life within the mountains.
The remainder of the day we work by ourselves. Whereas Darcy immerses herself within the wonderful spa services, I spend most of my time outdoors, shedding myself within the enchanting maze of paths. There’s a ski slope proper behind the lodge, so the probabilities to climb the south-facing slope of Plose are countless. From each path I may look over my shoulder and take one other have a look at the long-lasting views of the Dolomites. Within the night we take pleasure in a glass of wine on our balcony as we watch the sundown disappear behind the rocky peaks.
The subsequent day I be a part of the spa actions. Following the instance of the Celts, the magnificent wellness supply makes use of solely parts from nature, and the lodge’s alpine place at 1,800 meters above sea degree makes it a super place for R&R. We float within the pool, learn books in one among a number of rest areas, and check out a wide range of steam rooms and Finnish saunas, together with a natural one and a cabin within the woods. Every half has floor-to-ceiling glass home windows, so the view of the mountains is current always.
On the final night time, we get pre-dinner cocktails and take them outdoors to take pleasure in by the roaring hearth. The remoted location makes it the right place for stargazing and quiet reflection. We take pleasure in our final 7-course meal after which reluctantly put together to move dwelling. Taking extra trains than we may rely, Darcy sleeping to her coronary heart’s content material and me fulfilling my wanderlust within the mountains (a minimum of for now), our journey included lots of issues. Nonetheless, we spent lots of time doing completely nothing, in the easiest way.